The Quest for Houston's Best Burger

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The Chronicle‘s Dai Huynh sings the praises of Christian’s Tailgate Grill and Bar on Washington near I-10. His is as much a story of the place as a food review.

That’s also the style of Robb Walsh, who reviewed the place for the Houston Press in January:

“This is the best burger in Houston,” Bebout whispers devoutly.

Finally, I’m allowed to eat. And I have to say, it’s absolutely awesome. The hand-formed patty is made from a half-pound of never-frozen, freshly ground beef that cooks up into a very juicy burger. The french fries are average, but the onion rings are excellent. I would have liked the meat a little closer to medium rare, but that’s my only quibble.

“Well?” Bebout demands a verdict. I reply by mentioning my usual favorite burger joints. Bebout allows that Adrian’s Burger Bar in the Fifth Ward is outstanding. But Adrian puts a whole pound of meat on every burger, and that’s too much for average folks to eat at lunch. And yes, he says, the cheeseburger at Rudyard’s is indeed psychedelic. But Rudz isn’t open for lunch. He goes on to say that the barbecue burger at Guy’s is tasty but very well done. And however good the burgers at Tookie’s and Gilhooley’s may be, these restaurants are inconveniently located way the hell down there on Galveston Bay.

I’m forced to concede. At lunchtime, within the city limits, for hand-formed burger enthusiasts who don’t want a whole pound of ground meat, Christian’s Totem has the best burger in town.

Rudyard’s would get my vote for best burger, but I’ve never tried the one at Christian’s. Perhaps a field trip will be in order shortly.

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Kevin Whited is co-founder and publisher of blogHOUSTON. Follow him on twitter: @PubliusTX